M is for Meunier

Meunier has long been the underappreciated varietal of the Champagne appellation; misunderstood as the poor ageing, fun and fruity ‘lesser’ component of classically blended champagnes. But a new wave of dedicated and open-minded producers is beginning to change the way the region – and world – sees meunier. Champagne expert and meunier enthusiast, Yoko Ota-Sawyer, delves deeper into the mystery of meunier, dispels the myths and uncovers some little known truths.

“Meunier gives fruitiness to the blend in champagne, and it does not age well,” was what I learned in wine classes and books. But I started to question this as I experienced many quality champagnes made exclusively from meunier. I wanted to learn more, but information available was limited.

During my regular trips to Champagne, I asked producers, known for growing and making champagne from this varietal, about its peculiarities, strengths and weaknesses. What started out as a curiosity has fast become a passion of mine, culminating in a research project that I have affectionately titled ‘M for Meunier’, to honour and bring greater recognition to it. This article is a small homage to what I have discovered.

Formerly known as pinot meunier, since it was long considered to be a relative of pinot noir, meunier (as it’s now commonly referred to) has come into its own in recent years. New DNA testing has been unsuccessful at establishing a connection between the two, therefore meunier has become independent of its ‘pinot’ precursor. The name ‘meunier’ derives from the French word ‘miller’ - as in flourmill - because the leaves are covered in tiny white hairs, as though they’ve been dusted with white flour.

Unlike the other traditional regional varieties, chardonnay and pinot noir, which are planted all over the world, the majority of meunier plantings can be found in Champagne. Having greater tolerance of frost, and a tendency to bud later, makes meunier remarkably tough. It is often located on cool hillsides, constituting some 70 percent of total plantings along the river in the Vallée de la Marne. Another place where you can find a good portion of quality meunier is around the north-western area of the Montagne de Reims, in a place referred to as La Petite Montagne de Reims.

Producers tell me their greatest challenges with this varietal includes inconsistent yields, the risk of botrytis, and increased work in vineyards, as vine shoots grow heavy. But if raised with care, meunier is capable of becoming an instrumental part in a non-vintage blend, a vintage blanc de noirs, a rosé by blending or maceration, or a still wine of Coteaux Champenois - in the color of red or white - and even a fortified sweet wine known as ratafia.

One of the unique things about meunier is its ability to make champagnes of different styles; from light and refreshing aperitifs, to full and rich styles with ‘muscles’ that can handle bold and flavourful meat dishes. Aromatics found in a glass are equally fascinating from fresh citrus fruits of orange, pink grapefruit, and lemon, as well as stone fruits like peach, nectarine, apricot, and Mirabelle plum. When blessed with sunshine and warm weather, meunier can also show ripe and exotic notes of William pear, mango, pineapple, and gooseberry. Sometimes I find floral scents of orange blossom, honeysuckle, and jasmine together with warmer notes of almonds, aniseed and ginger. Earthy aromas, such as mushroom and truffles, are often found in more mature bottlings.

But where do all of these aromatic components come from? Besides its origin in terms of soil and microclimate, as well as a vintage and time of harvest, producers frequently emphasise the importance of lower yields from older and selection massale vines, which they say contributes to greater consistency and higher quality fruit. Last, but not least, the influence of winemaking is ever important in the ultimate expression of wine. Some producers prefer to block malolactic fermentation to retain freshness while others enable its course so that wines become softer and rounder. Similarly, types of vessels used for vinification have a big impact on style, ranging from stainless steel, enamel tanks, oak barrels of different age/size/toast/origin, as well as concrete eggs and amphora.

“How do you describe meunier?” I am often asked, before sealing my lips to look for answers with frustration. But I am always reminded of a particularly useful description given to me by meunier specialist, Christophe Mignon. “Meunier has a special ability to express the freshness of chardonnay and the structure and volume of pinot noir.” For me, what makes this grape interesting is its versatility and surprising quality; you never know what you will get until you take the first sip.

The history of meunier’s challenges, its generosity, and resilience to difficult circumstances, makes it the Cinderella of Champagne. There is something captivating about its story as a long underappreciated varietal finally finding its place in the hands of committed producers.

My heart, and respect, is with these producers who are changing the future of meunier and that of Champagne.

Words by Yoko Ota Sawyer
Photography supplied by the Domaines represented