How Drappier Revolutionised Champagne from the Côte des Bar

The Drappier family crafts innovative champagnes in Champagne's Côte des Bar, pioneering organic practices, rare grape varieties, and sulfite-free production while preserving 800 years of winemaking heritage. Award-winning Sommelier, Bhatia Dheeraj, interviews Charline Drappier for this article.

What is it like working alongside three generations of your family, including your 96-year-old grandfather?

It's truly extraordinary. My grandfather still comes to the office every day at nearly 96, bringing with him this incredible wealth of knowledge about our operations. He lived through World War II and has witnessed the passage of so many eras – he's our vital link between past and present. His wisdom brings this sense of continuity that binds us to Drappier's historical roots. Working with him, my parents, and my brothers creates this unique dynamic where we're constantly learning from each other across generations.

Tell us about your family's transition from grape growers to champagne producers. That sounds like quite a leap.

For nearly 150 years, we were dedicated growers, tending vines for the larger Champagne Houses. When my grandparents decided to step into champagne production, they were true pioneers in the Aube region. Many people thought they were eccentric – even crazy! They took on a 40-year burden of debt, dedicating everything to creating their own champagne when the concept of grower-producer champagne was almost unheard of.

The skepticism was real, but their deep knowledge as vineyard workers made them exceptional. Even today, my grandfather knows every nuance in the vines. Their leap of faith was a testament to pioneering spirits unafraid of breaking with tradition.

Your father was making 100% Pinot Noir champagnes three decades ago. How ahead of the curve was that?

Incredibly ahead! This was long before it became trendy. Back then, it was considered unconventional – maybe even a little crazy. But that's always been our way: exploration without bounds, discovering old grape varieties, experimenting with non-sulfite vinification. We've never been afraid to push boundaries.

You mentioned your remote location plays a defining role. How does isolation shape Drappier?

We're nearly an hour from the nearest city, Troyes, so we find ourselves in this beautiful isolation. It's in this seclusion that we truly live as a family, exploring the depths of our surroundings because, quite simply, it's all we have. We're custodians of 62 hectares of our own vineyards, plus another 50 hectares under long-term contracts – over 120 hectares total that my brother Hugo oversees as our viticulturist.

What makes the Côte des Bar terroir so special for your champagnes?

We're built on Kimmeridgian limestone – the same soil found in the grand cru vineyards of Chablis. Four decades ago, crafting champagne based on this Côte des Bar limestone was novel and challenging. We persisted and made it our signature. The result showcases our terroir's character with significant minerality and a touch of salinity.

We're also at the maximum elevation in Champagne – 300 meters – which gives us an extended growing season and creates this remarkable contrast between ripeness and acidity that defines our champagnes.

Your champagne production is heavily Pinot Noir-focused. What's the breakdown?

Seventy percent of our vineyards are devoted to Pinot Noir, with 20% Chardonnay and 10% Meunier varieties. We have over 13 distinct champagne creations, which might sound extensive, but this diversity reflects our terroir's unique characteristics. We're not trying to make champagne for everyone – we create champagne for wine aficionados who appreciate wine itself, not just champagne as a category.

Let's talk about your pioneering work with rare grape varieties.

About 20 years ago, my father recognised that some rare varieties were disappearing from our vineyards, remaining only in small patches. He felt it was our responsibility to preserve and revive them. We didn't want them as museum pieces – we wanted to make something extraordinary.

Our "Quattuor" champagne started as a challenge, to create a Blanc de Blancs without Chardonnay. We excluded oak to discover their true taste, resulting in a white champagne from four lesser-known white varieties, with a touch of Chardonnay as a binding agent. Climate change helped too – these varieties now ripen more consistently than before.

You were making low-sulfite champagnes long before it became trendy. What drove that decision?

Twenty-five years ago, we embarked on creating low-sulfite champagne, refining our process over two decades. My father and grandfather are highly sensitive to sulfites – they can detect them by aroma and physical sensation, often described as hot stones with a dry quality they feel in their foreheads.

We completely redesigned our winery for our no-added-sulfite champagne: gravity-driven operations, minimising waiting times between harvest and pressing, keeping everything in one place to protect from oxidation. For them, sulfites sometimes masks wine's true nose profile, so removing them reveals a more authentic character.

Sustainability seems central to your philosophy. Can you elaborate?

We've been working toward carbon neutrality for seven years. We generate 75% of our electricity through solar panels, use electric vehicles in vineyards and winery, and have nearly half our vineyards – about 30 hectares – certified organic.

We've observed climate change firsthand and believe growing organically isn't enough. We've extended our focus to water management, electricity consumption, and every aspect integral to champagne making. Our carbon-neutral commitment is essential to our identity and long-term vision.

What's the family dynamic like with three brothers working together?

It's unique and inspiring. Hugo handles viticulture and has winemaking skills, while my father remains deeply engaged in winemaking. Antoine isn't in the business side but is passionate about horses – he breeds them and works with them in the vineyards, handles tree pruning, vegetable growing, and poultry farming. We've even introduced sheep to help maintain the grounds!

What defines the Drappier philosophy?

We aim to produce champagne with elegance, particularly through our Pinot Noir focus. We're about showcasing a single, distinct terroir rather than blending from various sources. Our minimal sulfite use, non-filtration, and terroir preservation create champagnes with powerful, distinctive character.

We seek contrast and harmony between minerality, finesse, fruitiness, and freshness. Our strong identity might not suit everyone, but it speaks to the deep-rooted history of the Côte des Bar. We've always been at champagne's evolutionary forefront – not bound by tradition, so we can continue exploring and evolving.

Any final thoughts on what makes Drappier special?

Our connection to this place runs deep, defining our winemaking journey. When you visit our estate, perched high above, you witness a landscape that's breathtaking and unique. This vantage point offers appreciation of Champagne's genuine character.

Our roots reach back 800 years to when monks first cultivated these vines. We're the bridge between that ancient heritage and champagne's future. Every day at Drappier is exciting and dynamic because we're not just making champagne – we're continuing a story that began centuries ago while writing new chapters for generations to come.