I remember when Bollinger released B13 back in 2021. It was a 100% pinot noir blanc de noirs from the challenging, but eventually glorious, 2013 vintage and it was at this moment that Bollinger hard-launched its claim on the blanc de noirs category.
B13 was, and is, a traffic-stopping champagne, and one that challenged my thinking (or shall I say aversion), to the blanc de noirs style which never quite possessed the finesse that I expected from classically structured champagne wines. I still have a case of it in my cellar.
Since then, the House has gone on to champion their flagship varietal, pinot noir, with its signature powerful and energetic style under the innovative PN series. PN has unequivocally placed blanc de noirs on the champagne map, becoming a category disruptor, of this lesser understood and niche style.
Philosophically, the 'B' and 'PN' series couldn’t be more different. Where the ‘B’ limited editions are creative responses to challenging weather years, precluding a release of La Grande Année, PN offers an ongoing exploration into provenance, with each release highlighting specific crus and marrying them with Bollinger’s deep library of reserves.
Fast forward to 2016, the House has captured the essence of the relatively cool 2016 vintage with its release of B16. The 2016 vintage was a challenging year plagued by mildew. Pinot showed less favourably, thus fruit from Bollinger’s native land of Aӱ was not sufficient for the making of La Grande Année. Chardonnay, on the other hand, shined. In fact, many of the chardonnays from this year are, in my opinion, some of the finest I’ve tried in recent times. They are ballerinas. B16 leans into the merits of the year adopting a 27% chardonnay and 73% pinot noir profile.
Five key villages were chosen for fruit selection, namely Bouzy, Trepail, Verzenay, Verzy and Tauxières, the latter four delivered from cooler climes for growing fruit. Dosage was a modest 4g/L further to 7 years on lees.
B16 shows a good balance between pinot noir richness and chardonnay freshness. There’s a generous core of fresh raspberry, softened by orchard fruits, and a bright lift of grapefruit zest. With time in the glass, more complexity emerges through toasted nuts, subtle spice and oyster shell. It doesn’t have quite the intensity or drama of La Grande Année, nor the youthful energy of Bollinger’s PN series. Instead, B16 finds its own place between the two; smooth with evolving maturity, bright, precise and immediately approachable. It's a delicious wine and one that I recommend. 94/100 points.
Bollinger B16 is stocked at Kent Street Cellars with a RRP $269.99.
