0 Comments
Add Comment
02/04/2021 03:46
The emergence and accessibility of grower champagne highlighted the diversity in winemaking styles in the Champagne region. Our new-found understanding of what could constitute a blend, as well as the role of grape varieties, not only shook things up but also changed the decades-long notion of when and how to drink champagne. Favouring a white wine glass over a flute and drinking a bottle throughout a meal, instead of as an apéritif, reminded us that champagne is wine first and bubbles second. Now, more than ever, sommeliers choose to decant champagne as they would a still wine, which beckons: why, when and how?
Although, the loss of bubbles might be a less than desirable trade-off for many enthusiasts, the convivial freshness is only one feature of champagne’s prized fizz. The entrapped CO² serves as a preservative and slows down the rate of aging. That's why even decades-old champagnes boast so much life. When opening a young vintage champagne, decanting can help soften the aggressive effervescence resulting in a finer bead and softer mousse. And there is so much depth under the seam of bubbles! Consider that vintage champagne must spend 36 months on lees but most often goes longer - and it is not at all uncommon to release labels eight to ten years after harvest. Bubbles can distract from experiencing the complex aromas and flavours developed over the extended period of time. Contrarily, old, vintage champagne (more than 20 years) is not an ideal candidate for decanting.
In some instances, the presence of effervescence can stand between the consumer and the wine. Grower champagnes with a pronounced winey character, such as those made in a heavily oxidative style, benefit from full decanting and shine at the dining table.
While softening the effervescence unearths complex aromas and flavours, it will make sweetness more pronounced. Therefore, it’s not recommended to decant champagnes with higher dosage, unless the aim here is to pair them specifically with a sweeter dish.
But how to decant? Champagne tends to foam upon contact with glass. Therefore, pouring becomes a two-step process. To reduce foaming and loss of effervescence, rinse the inside of the decanter with a small amount of champagne. Then tilt the decanter at a slight angle and gently pour the champagne slowly along the inner side of the decanter. If it begins to foam, pause and allow it to settle. Et Voila! Enjoy your decanted champagne over the next 30 minutes to one hour.
Words by Marcell Kustos, PhD
Photography by Riedel