The Grower's Grower: Vilmart et Cie

Grower champagne may be on the lips, and palates, of many champagne lovers these days. Vilmart & Cie has been one of the longest serving, growing and bottling their own wine since 1890. Five generations on, they are upheld as one of the finest champagne growers and producers in the region. Yuri Shima talks to Laurent Champs about what makes it so special.

Vilmart & Cie established its reputation at the onset of the grower-producer movements in Champagne. It was one of the first to transition to sustainable farming in the 1970s, and has created a premium range, otherwise known as prestige cuvées, amongst other growers.

Vilmart was founded in 1890 in Rilly-la-Montagne, a premier cru village in the northern Montage de Reims. Its success has surged ever since Laurent Champs, fifth generation family member, took over in 1989. Under his leadership, Vilmart increased its presence in the global market over the last twenty years.

Laurent explains, “Today’s Vilmart was built by my father, René. He started organic farming inthe vineyard and introduced large casks and non-malolactic fermentation practices into the winemaking, which were unusual in those days. These are now the core pillars of Vilmart.”

Vilmart’s wine quality begins with 11-hectares of vineyards. Most are located in Rilly-la-Montagne, with the balance located in the neighbouring village of Villers-Allerand.

“We are lucky to have vineyards so close to the winery,” says Laurent. “The vineyards are separated into just 12 plots. But on this scale, it could be as many as 70 plots spread out. It enables us to do our vineyard work in a timely and precise manner.”

Vilmart’s vineyard profile is unique; they grow more chardonnay on south or south-east facing vineyards. This is the opposite of Rilly-la-Montagne’s typical vineyards that are dominated by black grape plantings with pinot noir and meunier grown on north or east-facing slopes. It’s a unique characteristic of Vilmart’s wines that are fresh and elegant with higher acidity and finesse.

“Chardonnay in our vineyards is pure and elegant with citrus notes. It also has pinot-like expression with a fuller body, because it’s grown in the Montagne de Reims,” says Laurent.

Vilmart’s prime plot is ‘Les Blanches Voies’, spanning half of the estate. Planted with chardonnay (80 percent) and pinot noir (20 percent) on chalky soil with an entirely south exposition, it produces wines with ripe fruit and long-aging potential. It is here that Vilmart creates its top range, Cœur de Cuvée, Grand Cellier, and the new, Blanc de Blancs. They select from the best old vines grown from massale selection.

‘Wine first, bubble second’ is the mantra behind Laurent’s winemaking, which is detailed and meticulous at every step of the champagne-making process.

All wines are fermented and aged in oak casks of various sizes. Large oak vats are used for non-vintage wines – Grand Reserve and Grand Cellier. Vintage wines are vinified in small Burgundy barrels by a cooperage, Damy. Newer oak barriques between one to three years old are reserved for top cuvées such as Cœur de Cuvée and Blanc de Blancs, while four to six year old barriques are used for Grand Cellier d’Or.

Laurent aims for roundness and complexity in wines from oak and blocks malolactic fermentation in order to preserve freshness and tension. These two factors are well-balanced in Vilmart wines.

Patience is another factor in Laurent Champs’ winemaking philosophy who says they need time to ‘fully speak’. For example, the bottling time for secondary fermentation is as late as July. Wines are kept on lees for longer, around two to three years for non-vintages, and five to eight years for vintages. They’re also allowed to rest post-disgorgement. For top cuvées that are more influenced by oak, Laurent says they need time to become fully integrated so they can express energy and intensity.

Cœur de Cuvée is Vilmart’s iconic prestige cuvée. As the name indicates, it is made only from the heart of the press – the best part of the juice. Consisting of 80 percent chardonnay and 20 percent pinot noir, grapes are sourced exclusively from vines of over 50 years old in Les Blanches Voies.

The current release of Cœur de Cuvée is the 2011 vintage, a challenging year that many producers decided not to declare a vintage. But not in Vilmart’s case, deciding to wait longer than others to harvest the grapes. According to Laurent, the key for 2011 was waiting for better maturity of grapes and ensuring longer aging, especially post-disgorgement time.

“Winemaking is about patience and humility,” says Laurent, whose personal quest for perfection never ceases and continues to attract new fans. In 2020, Vilmart released a new Blanc de Blancs in limited quantities from the 2009 vintage. Another new release is expected in 2024.

In the time being, the tasting room has been renovated and is ready to welcome guests with the best possible ‘emotional’ experience.

With a century of history behind it, Vilmart is looking more forward than ever with the next generation, Thomas, joining his father last year.

Photography supplied by Vilmart et Cie