Eric Rodez’ star is on the rise. The Krug-trained, Ambonnay grower is one of the best in the village. He is known for his single-parcel focus, terroir-driven and skilfully blended champagnes.
A shiny white Porche SUV drives by and pulls into the garage. Rodez emerges wearing a hot orange vest and trademark thick-frame glasses, looking more art director than vigneron. Perhaps it’s not a bad comparison for a man who, in my opinion, produces some of the best artisan grower champagnes from this part of the Montagne.
Artisan is not a term Rodez personally uses to describe what he does, preferring the analogy of conductor and symphony. He speaks of the music of his vines, the beauty of nature and seriousness of soil management with the kind of theatre one would expect from a grand opera. There are animated body gestures and facial expressions that make listening to Eric Rodez both compelling and captivating, much like his wines.
Music resonates with Eric’s philosophy toward vine and wine, but perhaps it is also a nod to his past working as a young oenologist at Krug.
Unsurprisingly, it was at Krug that Rodez developed a skilful hand at blending, a House that has famously likened their complex blends to a symphony with respect to harmony and balance. At Krug, Rodez learned the importance of vinifying each parcel of terroir in its own barrel to elaborate identity, a practice he employs today.
In his room of perfectly ordered reserve wine, we tasted from several barrels. There is ample stock – much more than the norm for a small grower – but Rodez’ style is dependent on a diverse cache of older wines. They are all exquisite; sensual, as Rodez says, flavoursome, vinous and precise. We move on to the cuverie. It is small, yet immaculate, home to a mixture of oak and stainless steel fermentation vessels. Malolactic fermentation is generally blocked and lower dosage is used to support mineral definition and elegance.
Pinot noir sits at the centre of Rodez’ blends, followed by chardonnay. The eighth-generation winegrower lays claim to around seven hectares divided into 35 plots, comprising silex-clay topsoil over deep bedrock of chalk. Vineyards are worked organically or biodynamically and essential oils are used as treatments. Land is ploughed and vines meticulously pruned to limit yields. Over the years, Rodez’ dedication to sustainable farming has seen him rise to the top as one of Ambonnay’s best vignerons, and it’s easy to see why. Rodez’ wines are very good. His single-parcel focus produces wines true to Ambonnay’s terroir which has the ability to make powerful and rich champagnes but with more elegance and minerality than neighbouring Bouzy.
In the case of Rodez, champagnes have a lively sense of chalk or flint minerality and deliciously ripe, vinous character. They are precise, but with a nice roundness.
Among those we tasted, Rodez’ Dosage Zéro is one of my favourites. This 30% chardonnay / 70% pinot noir cuvée, based on 2011, is a lesson in how good Ambonnay is for low or no dosage champagne. Its approachable profile is bright and pure, silky and sensual. There is a lovely density of fruit and elegance uncommon for a brut nature style.
Les Fournettes 2009 Pinot Noir heralds from vines located on 70cm thick topsoil on top of chalk. It is rich with apple and caramelised fruits, mandarin and citrus peel. Vine exposure is south-east, vinification is in barrel, malolactic fermentation is blocked, and sugar is no more than 2 g/L.
Les Beurys Macération 2009 Pinot Noir offers more tension due to its easterly exposure located on 30cm topsoil. It has a nose of rhubarb, chocolate and cherry pie and appears evenly balanced and dry. Maceration takes place over three days, there is no malolactic fermentation and dosage is kept to a low 3 g/L. Conversely, its 2008 predecessor drinks with the sensation of fine linen sheets. There is more sensuality, precision and concentrated flavours.
We move onto Grands Vintages which Rodez is perhaps best known for and where his skill as a masterful blender really comes to the fore. This is a big style of champagne, a multi-vintage blend comprising 30% chardonnay and 70% pinot noir based on the 2009 vintage and extending back to 2002. The 2009 base is wonderfully rich, producing a nose of poached pear, spice, crème brulee and light autolysis. It feels complete and balanced and has a chalky mouthfeel. Its deliciousness is exemplary of the quality of Rodez’ work, especially his tedious collection of reserves. Dosage is low at 3 g/L.
Lastly, Empreinte de Terroir 2005, a 100% pinot noir champagne emphasising the characteristics of Rodez’ vineyard terroir. This superb wine is a paradox of weightlessness and intensity derived from old vines across six plots. No malolactic fermentation, no fining, fermented in barrels and with 2.5 g/L dosage. Ripe, round, yet super-saline. An elegant and highly seductive Ambonnay terroir-driven champagne.
