Megan Barber lived the beguiling life romantics often dream about – that of a young woman moving from the far side of the world to Paris. Two years ago, she traded in her day job as a brand manager for one of Champagne’s largest grandes marques, and followed her heart all the way to France. There she was able to indulge her curiosity and passion for champagne, travelling regularly from Paris to the region, where she was mentored by one of Champagne’s youngest and most dynamic producers. From her extensive tastings of vins clairs in winter and spring, through to the toil of harvest 2018 in summer, Megan’s journey represents the seasons of the region, and a very special time in her life.
“I haven’t yet tried kangaroo, is it good? I cannot believe you eat your national emblem here!” was the question posed by a curious Rodolphe Frerejean-Taittinger as we entered a restaurant by a lapis blue ocean in Bondi Beach. It was his first visit to Sydney, representing Frerejean Frères, a small artisan champagne house that he established with brothers, Richard and Guillaume, in Avize on the Côte des Blancs. We had met, by chance, the day before at the Gault et Millau awards. At the time, I was brand manager for another champagne house. We bonded immediately over our shared vocation – champagne.
Winter
I relocated to Paris at the end of 2017, trading champagne in Australia for Australian wine in France - yes, I see the irony. I had sacrificed my dream job for an opportunity to live in a culture that fascinated me and to advance my career. Rodolphe quickly became a trusted and welcomed ally.
Bitter sleet fell on the glass ceiling of Ristorante National, Hôtel des Arts et Métiers as we shared ideas regarding champagne and our individual strategies for ProWein, Düsseldorf. Paris had an unusually generous dusting of snow for that time of year.
A left hand turn from Domaine Jacques Selosse and a stone’s throw from L’Église Saint-Nicolas, led to Frerejean Frères in the centre of the town.
“You must come and visit the maison in Avize. It is magnificent,” he said. Naturally, I accepted the invitation, and Avize soon became a favourite escape from Paris. A left hand turn from Domaine Jacques Selosse and a stone’s throw from L’Église Saint-Nicolas, led to Frerejean Frères in the centre of the town. The facade looked golden in colour, and appeared as warm and inviting as the people inside.
Didier Pierson, chef de cave, greeted me like an old friend. Step-by-step we descended into the cellar with its white chalk pebbles embedded in the walls, gleaming as warm lights guided our way.
Didier explained the history of the family: The Frerejean-Taittinger brothers were born to two old families from the region. Their mother was a Taittinger, related to one of Champagne's best known and largest champagne houses. The original Frerejean brothers, Georges and Louis, were master blacksmiths, operating their forge to manufacture cannons for Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte during the Napoleonic Wars.
Rolling vineyards had been their childhood playground, a precursor to what would become; the founding of their small maison in 2005.
Richard, Guillaume and Rodolphe were raised between Paris and Avize. Rolling vineyards had been their childhood playground, a precursor to what would become; the founding of their small maison in 2005. As adults, the Frerejeans produced and collated a secret collection of cuvées guided by a vision of what a great champagne should be – mature, elegant and complex. Didier is himself a fifth generation grape grower from Avize and has known the Frerejean-Taittinger brothers for many years. The fondness that Didier holds for the brothers was palpable as we continued the tour through the winery. Between them, there is absolute trust where the brothers’ vision for terroir-driven cuvées, true to the Côte des Blancs, comes together with Didier’s skilful execution.
An almost Burgundian approach underscores the estate, working exclusively with chardonnay and pinot noir sourced from grand and premier cru plots acquired in Avize, Le Mesnil sur Oger, Chouilly and Cramant. On the land, a heightened approach to sustainable viticulture is employed. In the cellar, Didier prefers enamel lined tanks, sometimes with a small passage of time in barrels as well as long ageing to enhance the vivacity of wines. Impressively, cuvées are aged for at least four to five years and a maximum of twelve; time is allowed to take its course.
Speaking of time, the hours flew with Didier…I was very late for a boat party on the Marne.
Spring
“We are going to Champagne; shall we all go together?” was the text message I received from Rodolphe and his business partner, Florestan.
Everyone was in fine form, jovial and full of banter, as we piled into a car in the centre of Paris and headed for our beloved Champagne. Winding our way through the streets of Epernay, the vote was unanimous; take the off-road route. And so we bumped and bounced across the dusty roads, skirting the vineyards as Florestan listed facts about the region, and Rodolphe pointed out places of interest and reminisced about his childhood.
Around that time, Frerejean Frères was starting to gain some international recognition, and demand for their cuvées was increasing.
We arrived, much to the delight of Didier, who was waiting to greet us. Around that time, Frerejean Frères was starting to gain some international recognition, and demand for their cuvées was increasing. The neighbouring property and caves had been acquired to accommodate increased production.
The walls of the cellar were lined with crates and the riddling racks of resting cuvées, noticeable for their signature clear bottles, displayed the magnificent gold of blanc de blancs contained within, or a flash of blush from the rosé. Alongside, there were racks of vintage-green bottles housing the superb VV26 and Cuvée des Hussards.
But we were there to inspect the grapes. It was late springtime and warmer than usual. 2018 was shaping up to be an exceptional, even remarkable, year. The quality of the grapes was near perfect and yield potential was looking high.
As we said our farewells, it was agreed that I would return for harvest.
Summer
At Frerejean Frères, as they waited for optimal ripeness and flavour, harvest came a little later than for others across the Côte des Blancs. I awoke early to a regular day of grey skies interspersed with patches of blue. We were at the turn of the season, but it was still warm – a perfect day for picking. We jumped into the van and drove across to Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Stumbling across the chalky terrain, I climbed my way to the top of a hill and examined the view. Vineyards fell away toward the village adorned with terracotta and granite roofs, while the steeple of L’Église Saint-Nicolas, to the right, and Réserve Naturelle des Pâtis d'Oger, stood tall. We inspected the grapes. They were perfect: round and luscious.
At Frerejean Frères, as they waited for optimal ripeness and flavour, harvest came a little later than for others across the Côte des Blancs.
Once harvested, we raced our precious cargo around the corner of the cellars to the basket press. Didier had prepared everything with precision. Pressing began and I watched as the juice ran free. It would be at least another four years until the 2018 vintage would be seen again.
Autumn
I returned to a land so very different to the one I had left behind. Champagne was awash with shades of gold, burnt orange and brown as the deciduous vines began shedding their foliage prior to winter. I was running late for my appointment at Frerejean Frères. Didier was there - as always - to greet me, only this time as a friend and mentor.
Champagne was awash with shades of gold, burnt orange and brown as the deciduous vines began shedding their foliage prior to winter.
“Didier, this is the last time I will see you before I depart for Australia at Christmas,” I said with some sadness.
“Then we shall share a drink!” was his reply as he revealed a bottle of Rosé 2012, seemingly from nowhere.
Winter
A French paradox: we sat at Canard and Champagne in Passage des Panoramas in Paris, drinking Frerejean Frères Blanc de Blancs. It was just a few days until my departure, and, like old friends, Rodolphe and I discussed the past and the future.
“In just a short year, you have very much become a part of our Frerejean Frères family,” were Rodolphe’s kind words. I felt blessed beyond words for being invited into the inner circle of this unusual and wonderful champagne producer. The quality and beauty of their cuvées mirrored the team's warmth and generosity to me.
A change in season, back to winter, marked the passage of my time in France. My romantic dream had been reality for just four short seasons.
Photography by Frerejean Frères and Megan Barber
