20/10/2022 04:00
Take a note from our extensive book on the very best places to enjoy champagne this Global Champagne Day (28 October) in Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Brisbane and Perth.
Sydney
Champagne Bar, Sofitel Darling Harbour
Level 3, 12 Darling Drive, Sydney
Sydney’s premier champagne bar seems right at home alongside the city’s picturesque harbour. Situated on level three of the five-star Sofitel Darling Harbour, its contemporary French design is impressively refined – as one might expect – but it’s not without soul.
The bar is home to around 100 different cuvées by the bottle, 10 by the glass, sourced from several champagne portfolios. Whilst its philosophy is to provide enough brand reference to speak to customers, long-term plans suggest the bar itself may become the reference point for those seeking something more in-depth.
“We appeal to both tourists and locals; but we are targeting locals who really want to know about champagne. Around five percent of customers ask more in-depth questions about what they’re drinking. Champagne is very much on the rise in Sydney and we want to give our customers a bit more to explore and be part of a journey,” says the hotel's Food and Beverage Director.
Perusing the champagne list, one can spy vintages dating back to 1995 including the faultless Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires, a 2008 release of Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque and 2002 Jeroboam of Louis Roederer Cristal for a cool $22,000.
Appetisers like market oysters, poached tiger prawns and a range of moreish charcuterie temps with every glass, then finish on one of the Bar's signature champagne cocktails.
The Sofitel Champagne Bar’s human connection makes the tasting experience more than just about the bubbles. It’s a beautiful bar, with some exceptional cuvées, and passionate staff. A visit late at night, with the beauty of the lights from the harbour, is a must when in Sydney.
Visit: Champagne Bar Sofitel
Sydney
Bibo Wine Bar
7 Bay Street, Double Bay, Sydney
As far as neighbourhood wine bars go, BIBO is about as bona fide as they come. Its discreet entrance leads to a place of moody vibes, after dark, and immediately transports you to seductively warm nights in the Mediterranean.
Wood panelling and cool tones of grey and green are interspersed with lashings of colour from bold art adorning the walls. Intimate spaces can be found here and there, front and back of house. Ascend the narrow staircase to a world of private dining, complete with bar and terrace.
If it’s a good recommendation you’re after, you’ll be looked after by their award-winning team, that took out top honours in the Vintec Sommeliers' Choice Award at the 2020 Australia's Wine List of the Year.
BIBO's 22-page wine list includes champagne by the glass and bottle. Bottles are divided by region – Reims, Vallée de la Marne, Côte des Blancs, Côte des Bar and Coteaux du Petit Morin – and show a preference for growers than Champagne Houses.
The philosophy is to have enough diversity to tailor individual experiences without being intimidating. To this end, there is a mixture of well-known Houses and growers like Louis Roederer, Bollinger and Ayala, along with great grower champagnes like Ulysse Collin, Pierre Gerbais and Agrapart. The champagne list is divided by region because the terroir "highly influences flavours in the wine."
BIBO’s relaxed elegance will want to make you stay all night, the champagne even moreso. Pair yours with BIBO’s Portuguese-inspired fare such as smoked mackerel pâté and Grandma’s bread, King prawns with black garlic and kaffir lime, or Borrowdale pork belly, cauliflower, and jus. Black grape dominated grower champagnes, with their fuller-bodied and spicier profile, handles this kind of food well.
Whether you’re a neighbour – or just in the neighbourhood – BIBO Wine Bar offers that something special, within something that seems familiar.
Visit: Bibo Wine Bar
Melbourne
Nick & Nora's
80 Collins Street, Melbourne
Walking into Nick and Nora’s, Melbourne, with its Tiffany replica lampshades, intricate wooden panelling and paintings by Art Deco era, Polish artist, Tamara de Lempicka, is the kind of Gatsby-esque, velvet clad space that transports its guest to a more decadent time.
The space, designed by Studio Y, is a modern re-imagining of 1930s glamour inspired by the boozy house parties hosted by Nick and Nora Charles in The Thin Man crimefighting book series of the same period. Housed in the new 80 Collins Street development in the heart of Melbourne, the eighth and newest venue opened by the Speakeasy Group offers both a high-end cocktail and champagne bar experience.
Assistant Venue Manager, Sophia Cutts-Leraci (ex-Trader House restaurants), manages a list of over 70 champagnes, with the intention of extending it to over 100 individual cuvées. Having trained under the highly respected Leanne Altmann, Sophia’s approach to the extensive champagne offering is about presenting high-end products in a way that is informed and accessible, with staff training and product knowledge at the forefront.
“We want to be accessible to everyone… so you can come in with absolutely no knowledge and get a beautiful, affordable glass of champagne or you can come in looking for something
really tailored and premium, knowing what you want.”
The champagne list itself, organised by tasting profile, is an extensive offering of both House and grower champagnes. Pol Roger, G.H. Mumm and Ruinart sit comfortably alongside Laherte Frères, Egly Ouriet and Ulysse Collin, as well as a few select local and international sparklings to round out the offering.
“The key philosophy is approachability. Having a really diverse range of products from large Houses to small grower producers, having a diverse range of price points and a diverse range of flavour profiles…to be able to match something to everybody’s tastes and budget.”
Offering at least five champagnes by the glass ensures diversity of style and affordability are consistently on offer, while the venue also provides four different glass shapes in order to enhance the experience. For added decadence, Friday nights see guests thrilled by velvet curtain shielded sabrage, as well as the occasional champagne tower to “bring back that old school, decadent, over-the-top champagne service”. They have also dedicated an entire section of the cocktail list to champagne cocktails, catering to the most passionate champagne enthusiasts, who may eventually go astray.
To complete the effect, wander past the stunning custom-made temperature-controlled champagne cabinet and choose from three balconies and several indoor parlour-like spaces which can be cordoned off for groups and functions - as well as for the three different types of fully customisable champagne masterclasses currently on offer. With plans to host larger events with champagne houses in the coming year, a trip to Nick and Nora’s doesn’t need an excuse to celebrate, it is the excuse.
Visit: Nick & Nora's
Adelaide
Arkhé
127 The Parade, Norwood, Adelaide
Open flame cooking on a two-tonne wood oven wouldn’t normally inspire gastronomic thoughts with champagne, but at Arkhé, you’ll find Adelaide’s most extensive list of grower champagnes.
With Bhatia Dheeraj as the restaurant’s award-winning Beverage Director, there’s little wonder. He was responsible for raising an impressive list of champagne at Penfold’s Magill Estate, then again at Est. for the Merivale Group in Sydney.
He prefers not to take the approach of varietal and region, rather order the list stylistically to make things simpler for restaurant-goers.
“We offer ‘racy and crisp’ or ‘vibrant and herbaceous’,” he says, for example. “We love educating our guests by sharing stories of different growers, regions and what to expect from each bottle.”
Just two years since opening their doors, Dheeraj says that the food and wine at Arkhé offers a ‘sense of adventure’ which attracts people back, time after time. Food is cooked over coals - which retains heat for extended periods of time - and materials like ironbark and timber are added.
The open flame nature of the menu is no challenge when it comes to finding its champagne compliment, says Dheeraj. The philosophy here is quite simple and produce is always fresh, focused on what is good and unique to Australia.
“It makes it particularly exciting to pair with champagne,” he says because of the diverse options it creates.
Blanc de blancs styles go with Arkhé’s oysters and crumpets, whereas pinot-dominant champagnes have greater structure and work well with Ocean Jacket cheeks and bone marrow. Vintage champagnes, with their intense characters, pair beautifully with caviar, rock flathead, Southern Rock lobster and cheeses like Brillat-Savarin. And rosé styles, be they light and fresh or intense rosé de saignées, are as good as red wines, says Dheeraj, with more depth and complexity for meats like Mayura Station Asado ribs or Dairyman’s pork.
“Saignée styles can work wonders with desserts like Pineapple Tarte Tatin too,” he says. “And for richer styles of desserts - like smoked chocolate or smoked tiramisu, we have ratafia which is a sweet wine from Champagne.”
With more than 150 champagnes by the bottle, and a menu just as diverse, the adventure trail is long at Arkhé.
Visit: Arkhé
Adelaide
Mt Lofty House
1 Mawson Dr, Crafers, South Australia
There is a quiet decadence that belongs to Mt Lofty House. It starts when you turn off at Crafers on your way to the Hills – the Adelaide Hills, that is. Leafy trees grow thicker, noise from the freeway dulls, and the romance of getting away for a day or two sinks in.
It may be part of the Sofitel group, but Mt Lofty House couldn’t be more boutique, tucked away from it all, as a five-star escape, touting a three-hatted restaurant. It is ensconced in timeless refinement, complete with characterful stonework and deep-seated leather chairs; moody by day,
and just a little Agatha Christie by night.
The property’s restaurant, Hardy’s Verandah, is responsible for organising its wine list and special events, which extends to exclusive wine dinners for the property’s six-star luxury lodges, Sequoia. There are only 14 suites available to a select few with deep pockets, but with panoramic views of the Piccadilly Valley, complete with Japanese onsens, and a private club area, who’s counting dollars?
The luxury hotel wants to be recognised as one of the best places to go for a food and wine encounter, taking care to choose wines that are rare or cult favourites, but are also interesting to showcase alongside Head Chef, Jin Choi’s, creations.
It starts with curating a world-class wine list (now boasting more than 900 wines), taking the time to discover small gems, from good winegrowers, with a strong sense of provenance. You will find here, many bottles, and hear their stories.
The hotel has increased the diversity of their champagne offering according to sub-regions and has included growers on the rise and smaller negociants. Styles of champagne are also highlighted according to varietal and house philosophy including R.Pouillon, Jacques Selosse, Cédric Bouchard and Nicolas Maillart amongst favourite growers, alongside Louis Roederer
and Salon as preferred Houses.
And as for pairings? Try Selosse’s Substance NV with lobster, Pouillon’s Les Valnons with Brillat Savarin, Egly-Ouriet’s V.P. with duck rillette, and Roederer’s Cristal Rosé 2002 with duck à la framboise.
The appeal of Mt Lofty House may be in its unashamed decadence, but there is also a lot of heart and soul that comes through its finer details. Champagne lovers will find their retreat here.
Visit: Mt Lofty House
Adelaide
Magill Estate Restaurant
78 Penfold Road, Magill, South Australia
What many don’t realise - or expect - is the excellent champagne list offered by Penfolds’ fine dining restaurant at Magill Estate in South Australia – just a stone’s throw from Adelaide’s CBD. From Krug’s 1979 vintage to some of the hardest to source single vineyard grower champagnes, the list is perhaps the most exclusive in South Australia.
It may seem an odd coupling, having champagne in the spiritual home of Australia’s most iconic red wine producer. The restaurant cellar boasts the finest collection of Penfolds' wines dating back to the creation of the first experimental Grange in 1951. The diversity of South Australia’s terroir provides the restaurant with a rich palette of regional produce to pair with its wines.
Restaurant Manager, Rudranil Das, who has been at Penfolds since 2013, says that customers have inspired their ever-growing champagne list which provides an extra element of ‘fun’ for staff to play around with food and wine pairing, beyond Penfolds’ portfolio.
“We are mostly a special occasions restaurant,” says Das. “When people come here, their mindset is to drink Penfolds’ whites and reds. In terms of service, we seat patrons in the lounge and offer them a glass of champagne before dinner. That was our idea initially, but it has grown into something much more than that.”
What started out as a handful of House champagnes offered as an apéritif, has grown into a list boasting more than 55 different labels comprising Houses as well as top growers. Three champagnes are poured by the glass, which changes weekly. Das credits local winemaker, Kate Laurie, who has studied and trained extensively in Champagne, with helping them to build diversity into their list.
“Kate got us a lot of introductions with suppliers. She’s been instrumental in growing our list,” says Das. “It means we can keep changing. We focus on a style or region for a month and then move onto others. It allows us to play around and for patrons to enjoy their experience more.”
From Pierre Gerbais, Christophe Mignon, Cédric Bouchard and JM Sélèque, to Dom Pérignon, Salon, Bollinger and Ruinart – and others in between – the range caters to those seeking a brand reference but also for people looking to explore. The latter, he says, forms the majority of patrons walking through the door.
“Only five percent or so know what they want when they come in,” he says. “Everyone else is looking for us to help them make an educated decision. Champagne is big. It’s not just an apéritif. We offer it for lunch, pre-dinner, during dinner and post-dinner. Guests not only start in the lounge with champagne, they have it during a meal and will return to the lounge afterwards, to have another glass or bottle.”
Discerning palates seeking something more might opt for a bottle tucked away in their extensive cellar and not on the list. It’s part of the Penfolds experience, says Das, who goes on to relay their approach which is to talk to people, understand their preferences, and make suggestions including exclusive offerings.
On the topic of Penfolds' collaboration with Champagne house, Thiénot, Das says that it has helped the restaurant receive some recognition when it comes to champagne, but that it’s Australians, rather than overseas visitors, who are most interested.
“People come to taste the new champagne but then see we have all these others,” he says about the restaurant which is mostly frequented by locals. "We also have plenty of interstate people who come especially for lunch and some internationals. Europeans know champagne. But with Penfolds being an Australian brand, they’re looking for local sparklings.”
To this end, the restaurant will continue to grow and diversify its champagne offering – mostly to satisfy Australians – but will also look to include some sparkling wine which, Das says, will also allow people to compare the two if they wish. The focus, however, will still be on champagne.
Visit: Magill Estate Restaurant
Brisbane
Montrachet
Shop 1/30 King St, Bowen Hills, Brisbane
Step inside Montrachet, located on Brisbane’s trendy King Street, Bowen Hills, and you will feel immediately transported to another time, another place. Its Parisienne brasserie chic has a refined air and sharp order but don’t let that intimidate you. There is a lovely warmth and charm within; from the intimate layout of the bar and detailed table settings, to the expansive windows and mellow glow from cascading brass lights.
Lunch or dine in the restaurant, bar or private dining room and you’re sure to be taken care of by a team of polished wait staff and knowledgeable sommeliers. Head Sommelier, Alexis Rojat, has set the bar high, elevating the calibre of food and wine expertise offered to patrons; and they’re particularly passionate about champagne.
Rojat was recruited by owners, Shannon and Clare Kellam, to complement the restaurant’s expansion several years' ago, coming from the Merivale group in Sydney where he was Head Sommelier at the famed Mr. Wong restaurant. One of the first things Rojat did was to revise the wine list to add some smaller growers because "everyone knows about Veuve Clicquot, Pol Roger and Dom Pérignon."
Aspirational diners can order rare treats such as Pommery’s Cuvée Louise 1998, Dom Ruinart Rosé 2004 or Moët and Chandon’s Grand Vintage 1998. Or perhaps a more current vintage such as Le Brun de Neuville Grand Vintage 2008, Bollinger Rosé 2006 or Bruno Paillard Millésimé Blanc de Blancs 2006. Diversity, however, is greatest in Montrachet’s non-vintage collection which ranges from well-known grower-producers (Egly-Ouriet, Vouette et Sorbee, Dhondt-Grellet and Larmandier-Bernier) to cooperatives (Collet and Palmer & Co.) and House champagnes (such as Ayala, Philipponnat, Brimoncourt, Billecart-Salmon, Gosset and Krug).
“There is a demand for prestige cuvées,” says Rojat. “People want to see how champagnes evolve over time, plus it’s hard to get the older vintages. But we need to make sure that people have the right understanding of what they want.”
But if your palate - or purse - won't open very far, you can always find something different by the glass and at a great price, like $26 for a glass of Larmandier-Bernier.
“We offer wine by the glass because it’s more affordable and less of a risk for those wanting to experiment,” he says. “Sometimes, we take a risk to promote something different - but that’s the idea. When people leave the restaurant, we want them to feel like they’ve had an experience.”
In addition to expanding its current wine list, the restaurant is focused on monthly food and wine masterclasses, of which champagne features. Masterclasses are broken down so that people can experience food and wine on a smaller level and understand how everything works together.
French inspired modern dishes paired with complimenting wines play to the joy, and art, of Montrachet’s philosophy captured by the execution of its passionate chef, Shannon Kellam. From cow's milk cheese ravioli in lettuce soup to double baked soufflé with crab, and Brisbane Valley pan roasted quail with preserved lemon, rhubarb and parsnip to snails baked in pots, there is a respect for tradition whilst employing modern techniques; fusing together new and old.
Whether you’re looking to lunch, dine or simply order a drink, Montrachet offers a unique and intimate champagne experience.
Visit: Montrachet
Perth
Steves Wine Bar
30 The Avenue, Nedlands, Perth, WA
Away from the hustle of the city and bustling bars, only a short walk to the banks of the beautiful Swan River in Nedlands, sits an iconic institution - Steves Wine Bar & Café.
Originally built in 1908 as a residential hotel, Steves is an award-winning and purpose-built fine wine and food destination, famous for its underground wine cellar. It’s home to Western Australia’s most extensive collection of European wines.
Until a few years ago, most wouldn’t have thought of Steves as a place to drink champagne. Patrons, from the ‘old days’, were mostly university students or locals who considered the pub as their extended home. It is a special kind of place. Even Thomas Hamel, one of Australia’s best known interior designers, who recently collaborated with the venue, commented on Steves’ enduring relationship with Perth.
Dining alfresco on the terrace with friends when the day is gloriously sunny, meeting a business partner over a bottle of wine, celebrating a milestone occasion, or attending wine dinners - Steves is a destination in itself for locals seeking a special wine experience.
At Steves, there are more than 750 bottles of champagne structured by style and format on the wine list. There’s good balance between Champagne Houses and growers.
Pol Roger and Billecart-Salmon range from NV Brut, to Vintage and Rosé, up to special cuvées - Louis Roederer’s Cristal and Dom Perignon P2. Then there’s Champagne’s grower luminaries - Agrapart, Larmandier-Bernier, Jérôme Prévost, Egly-Ouriet, Laherte Frères and Benoît Lahaye - to name a few. The list grows frequently and continuously.
With its diversification into champagne, Steves appeal as a special place to share good food and wine - with equally good people - has never been stronger. It is a destination unto itself.
Visit: Steves Wine Bar
Other great places to drink champagne
Sydney
Adelaide
Melbourne
Brisbane
Perth
Words by Sara Underdown, Anja Lewis and Christina Kaigg.