19/09/2021 06:16
Chardonnay adds freshness, pinot noir imparts body and structure and meunier is round and fruity. So goes what they say about champagne’s finely balanced and unique blend. But there are other varieties, much lesser-known kinds, that can interpret champagne very differently to classically blended ones. Author, writer and grower-champagne enthusiast, Yoko Ota-Sawyer, discovers the forgotten bunch.
Pinot noir, chardonnay and meunier are the traditional grape varieties of Champagne, but there are also four others, bringing the total to seven permitted kinds. The latter represents just 0.3% of total plantings - a tiny number - for the region’s so-called ‘ancient’ or ‘forgotten’ varieties. Arbanne, petit meslier, pinot blanc and pinot gris cover just 90 ha out of the region’s 34,400 ha of vineyard area. Despite the miniscule representation, more and more new wines are being made from these varietals that are starting to appear on our shelves.
What is going on? Is the question I have started to ask. So, here goes a story of Champagne’s other grape varieties.
Why Are They Called ‘Ancient’ or ‘Forgotten’?
“To recreate the wine of Champagne that was popular by style 300 years ago,” said Aurélien of Champagne Laherte Frères when I asked about the idea behind his cuvée ‘Les 7’ made from a field blend of seven permitted grape varieties. Often referred to as cépages oubliés (forgotten grapes) or cépages nostalgiques (nostalgic grapes), these four grapes along with varieties such as gamay, chasselas, teinturier and gros plant (folle blanche) were planted in the region a long time ago. But the replanting of vines on grafted rootstocks after phylloxera, together with the stricter industry regulation of permitted grape varieties (due in part to inconsistent yields and susceptibility to rots and diseases), resulted in ancient varieties disappearing.
Co-Plantation and Replantation
One of the unique attributes of wines made using these varieties is complantée or co-plantation. This ancient form of viticulture involves planting a range of grape varieties together to create a complex ecosystem promoting biodiversity. Not only is it believed to help regulate vine growth and harvest, but it also builds a sustainable environment that leads to quality grapes, thus quality wines. In order to keep harmony or synergy, which these grapes have built in vineyards, and to showcase its terroir, some producers harvest, press and vinify all the varieties together, contrary to the more classical way by vinifying varieties separately and blending together at the stage of assemblage.
Another curious discovery is that while some producers are making wines from these varieties planted during the generation of their grandparents and great grandparents (e.g. pinot blanc vines of Pierre Gerbais planted in 1904 and Benoît Lahaye’s field blend site of Le Jardin de la Grosse Pierre planted in 1923), other producers are just beginning to plant these vines, albeit within restrictions. It is actually prohibited to plant these varieties unless a producer decides to uproot existing vines to replant. In the case of Geoffroy, for example, the site of Les Houtrants was replanted in 2004 and Agrapart’s La Fosse was also replanted in 2003.
The Comeback
What is propelling the resurgence of these forgotten grapes? One major reason seems to be global warming as temperatures rise and producers grapple to retain Champagne’s signature freshness.
While some producers are taking a second look at these ancient varieties, the Comité Champagne (the region’s official trade organisation) is also working to develop a new variety by crossing the three traditional varieties (chardonnay, pinot noir and meunier) with others like arbanne, petit meslier and gouais. Another reason, told to me by producers, is to create better biodiversity to build a sustainable growing environment for vines with the aim of producing high quality fruit. And the last point is to offer champagne lovers more diversity. Witnessing the comeback of these forgotten varieties, through the work of open-minded producers, makes Champagne as a region and wine ever more exciting and fascinating.
Here are some champagnes to try from the lesser-known varietals.
Laherte Frères ‘Les 7’
This unique wine with shades of a rainbow on the label is made from a field blend of seven grape varieties raised on the terroir of Chavot, located just south of Epernay. Aurélien is also keen on petit meslier grapes and has released a new rosé bottling made from a blend of 50% petit meslier and 50% meunier from the 2016 harvest.
Geoffroy ‘Les Houtrants’
Pascal of Agrapart and Jean-Baptiste of Geoffroy visited Domaine Marcel Deiss of Alsace in 2001. Inspired by the idea of co-plantation, they decided to try out the concept back in Champagne. Jean-Baptiste’s creation is made from the traditional three plus arbanne and petit meslier planted on the site of Les Houtrants and bottled with no dosage from a blend of multi-vintages.
Étienne Calsac ‘Les Revenants’
Les Revenants translates to “the ones that are coming back” and this wine is made from three varieties of pinot blanc, petit meslier and arbanne in his vineyard of Montgenost near the Côte de Sézanne. A unique note of rhubarb strikes a pose in front of pineapple, apricot, orange and lemon wrapped in the gentle warmth of bees wax and a woodsy herbal blend of sage and thyme.
Pierre Gerbais ‘L’Originale’
This cuvée is like a family treasure of this domain, made from 100% pinot blanc planted on Kimmeridgian soil back in 1904 by Aurélien’s grandfather. Layers of white/yellow fruits, a bouquet of delicate white flowers and mouth-watering salinity are present as this wine’s remarkable texture stretches freely and happily on the palate.
Words by Yoko Ota Sawyer.